Night Photography
Most of the photographers I know do not have a lot to do with night photography. I was the same when I first started.
After I did a couple shoots at night, I've learned to like. It's one of my favorite types of photography. What I think makes people a little fearful of doing a night shoot, is the long exposures needed for night photography. I don't get to go on night shoots as much as I would like, but when I do, this is the equipment I take along with me:
* Tripod - one of the most important pieces of equipment for night photography.
* Small digital egg timer or digital watch with seconds.
* Filter are optional
* 2 - 1 gig memory cards
* cable trigger
* laptop and car charger
* small portable battery/air pump
* 6 slot memory card reader (I use a couple different cameras)
* Folding canvas/aluminum lawn chair (the kind that fits into a small canvas tube)
* Small folding canvas/aluminum lawn table (also fits into a small canvas tube)
* small penlight (flashlight)
* Thermos of coffee x 2 ( I like coffee)
* Snacks (peanuts, chips, whatever)
* Jacket
The time of year I like best is Fall. The bugs and no-see-ems are not out. Nothing worse than trying to do night photography and having to fan off mosquitos while trying to time a shot.
I also have a small bottle of repellant also in my backpack.
All my equipment can fit inside or lashed to my small camera backpack, except the portable batter/air pump - that I carry in hand. The battery/air pump I have was purchased from Wal-Mart for around 35 to 40 dollars. It has a ciggerette lighter on the front that I can use my laptop's car charger. This way, I can take my laptop to where I'm shooting. While I'm shooting with one memory card, I can be removing the photos from the other memory card into my laptop.
My wife also likes going on night shoots also so the time out on location is better.
If you have a friend that likes night photography, invite them to come along. It makes the shoot more enjoyable and keeps bordom away.
Once on location, I will set the camera to long exposure noise reduction. I usually start the f/stop out at f12 to f18. Remember, the higher the f/stop, the better depth of field (DOF). I also do not use bracketing at night because I usually walk my shot into the correct exposure and aperture. I do this because I'm not in a hurry and every shot doesn't have to be spot-on. I can take the time to take shots, look at the preview, adjust, take another shot, pull it off the memory card and see how it actually looks on the monitor. Bracketing is good, if good shots are needed right off the bat.
Also, once setup, I will use the blub setting on my camera and time it with my watch or by counting to myself. My camera also has timed shutter settings up to 30 minutes. I'll use these setting sometimes, but normally, I use the bulb setting and cable trigger. Depending on what I'm shooting, I will adjust the aperture up to bring more into focus. Scenic night shots - say a cityscape from on top of a hill looking down from a considerable distance from the city, or taking a picture of the moon, I have gone as hight as f/30 to f/35.
One of the important pieces is Planning. Planning can mean the difference between a good time and a bad time while out on a night shoot.
Know where you'll be going, the route getting there and where you will be setting up. I normally go during the day and find the best spot for setting up.
Remember not to setup too close to heavy traffic - especially heavy trucks, because the vibrations from the traffic can shake the tripod and ruin an otherwise good shot. Also, KNOW the neighborhood in which you'll be doing your photography - Be SAFE!
I do not setup close to a road because there are a few things that can go wrong; forgetting where you are and moving out into traffic, people have been known to throw things at pedestrians while driving by, it's easier to "snatch and run" when the car is next to your setup and you are sitting away from your camera. I am also aware of foot traffic around me. This is where taking a friend helps.
Something to try, once you have setup and have taken a few shots and have "tweaked" in the exposure and aperture; "Paint With Light".
Painting with light is pretty easy, but it might take a couple tries before you get the desired effects in the photo.
During one of your long exposures, use a flashlight to "paint" the subject. The light doesn't have to stay on the subject for long. You can move the light across the subject slowly - maybe in several directions, depending on the lenghth of the exposure. The effects can add a lot to a simple night shot.
Light Ribbons:
Setup with your camera -away from the road - and try a long exposure when a car is driving by. This will produce the light ribbons you see photos of and wondered how they did it. Long Exporse is how - along with the movement of the car..
About AuthorPhotographer with several published photos. Photography by Keith McCall
Source: ArticleTrader.com
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